Standing at the far southern edge of the Costa Verde and at the northern tip of the San Nicolo dunes, with the tiny hamlet of Portixeddu nestled in its southern flanks, De Su Guardianu rises steeply from the sea, its peak running North East towards the beaches of Scivu and Piscinas as the Mumollonis range. De Su Guardianus South Western slopes descend to fertile pastures and the dramatic sand and rock cape of Capo Pecora as it creeps towards the sea and finishing in a spectacular array of granite sea cliffs and stacks. At an altitude of 478m its characteristic summit is the second highest peak in the range after the ranges name’s sake Punta Mumollonis (499m). Which although higher fails to match The Guardians imposing form.
De Su Guardianu is a suitably apt name for the mountain as it is visible from most places locally, especially as you drive North along the coast from Nebida it dramatically reveals itself just south of the Port town of Buggerru. Su Guardianu dominates this vista as well as many postcards and other tourist trinkets in the town itself. Although historically the mountains name is associated with Buggerrus neighbour (and local rival) Fluminmaggiore, A small village sitting in the river valley 12km inland from coast, the Guardian is some what obscured from the view of the Fluminese.
After suffering countless raids by Barbary Corsairs in search of villages to plunder but mainly in search of slaves to sell in the slave markets of Northern Africa and the Middle East. The Fluminese set up a look out system to warn of impending attacks, a Guardian was positioned on the peak with the best view out to sea, their job was to keep a watchful eye on the coastline for any sign of impending Pirates. If danger was spotted, a warning fire was lit and bugle sounded to alert the locals to the arriving danger. Presumably the inhabitants would flee to the safety of the forest or higher ground, it is said that the current position of the village was chosen so as not to be visible from the sea, positioned further up the valley so it offered more protection and more time to prepare.
I have been given rudimentary instructions, which are always easier than long rambling instructions, it’s far less to recall to mind and I’m also less likely to over analyse the instructions when I inevitably get lost.
“Take the road to Capo Pecora, find a place to park near the top of the road. Follow the spine of the mountain until you get to the first hump, here bear to the right of the slopes. You’ll reach the summit cliffs on the right where you’ll find a channel to the top.”
This time I curse out loud as my frustration grows and I realise that I’m going to have to back track a fair bit through a particularly nasty bit of leg shredding foliage. My other option is to carry on and hope to hit the main trail again. I mix ideas and cut left and across to where I think the trail should be, it works and I find the trail just as I’m on the verge of collapsing into a frustrated mess. My legs are stinging from the salty sweat that’s reminding my cuts to remind me I’m an idiot, I admonish myself for stupidity whilst simultaneously thinking of a rather handy pair of trousers that that I once owned that had zip off legs. My friends have often puzzled at my reluctance to wear trousers; at this moment I am also puzzled.
As I gain altitude my shrub-based enemies become less of a problem and the rocks become more pronounced making the trail easier to pick out. The sun is quite high in the sky and its warm as I start to ascend the first rocky outcrop whilst bearing in mind to start my traverse towards the right. I have been on a few walks where I’ve missed an important marker from nothing more than being lost in an amazing panorama, this route has the same distractions. The shrub starts again as I make my way onto the southern flanks. Its taller this side and obscures my view, the path is easier to follow although it still presents me with some tricky choices. I seem to make the correct ones and find myself out of breath and at the base of the Guardians iconic rocky summit. The channel is easy to find and offers a couple of pleasant but focused bits of scrambling to reach the top and the splendid view that awaits.
I had been away in the UK for a couple of months and hadn’t been back long, I was craving a good hike and for some reason I hadn’t visited my usual routes in the hills and mountains behind San Nicoló. I had made the decision that morning whilst driving back from the school run. The weather was exceptional, I didn’t have to be back in Flumini until 14:00, today is the day! Let’s do this! I turned and told my wife “I’m going up there today” I remember the slightly bemused look on her face. “OK school finishes at 14:00” I was reminded. I had just decided there and then that the time was now, but it wasn’t the case that I hadn’t thought about it. Every time I had driven from Cala Domestica to Buggerru and the mountain springs into view, the times I had skirted its slopes whilst driving to the tranquillity of Capo Pecora, eyeing its summit from the van windscreen. This decision was made rashly and in the spur of the moment so I grabbed my boots, packed some water and other bits into my rucksack and went to collect my brief and as it turns out bang on instructions. I knew what was needed today and that turned out to be bloody legs and a sun battered face!
The Guardian had been taunting me for a while now, It’s almost impossible to ignore, I see it every day. It’s one of the many peaks on the school run that have caught my attention, the Fluminese valley also has some interesting hills and mountains but De Su Guardianu is the taunter, the local big lad that gives you that look “come on then!”. It attracts attention and is always the peak that visitors wish to conquer as it’s impossible to ignore.
As summits go it’s not a huge one but it does deliver drama and stunning panoramas which make up for its modest height. Surrounded on most sides by the Mediterranean Sea and then forests and mountains to the North and the East. Looking South towards Sant’Antioco the huge bay that runs from Cala Domestica to Capo Pecora arches North through cliffs, coves and the village of Buggerru ending in the huge beach and dunes of San Nicoló. The ridge from Su Guardianu dips North East before rising again into a series of peaks and I decide that I have time to explore and head off in that direction. It takes concentration on the rock and loose sandy paths as the eastern edge falls away to steep rock and cliffs. I descend slightly before climbing up and along the crest towards Punta Mumollonis, the highest point in the range.
Looking back at Su Guardianu it seems far less imposing from this height and vantage point, a small wave making part of a waveform. I eye my decent and spot a few possible routes as I try to link it into the ridge route I’m now walking, I know it looks straight forward from up here but it will in reality become harder to read the route as I descend. Carrying on along the ridge is great fun, the views are spectacular and Ideally I’d like to carry on and try finishing the range and descend to the coast, picking up the Cammino Minerario di Santa Barbara which skirts the lower slopes of the Guardian on its way North to Scivu beach. Time isn’t on my side today and I decide to take a prominent looking route down and with the same hope of intercepting the Camino di Santa Barbara and heading back towards where I had parked the van.
The route I’ve tried for is steep and gravelly and I suspect once used by someone to get vehicular access to the ridge, its to wide for just a trail and I laugh at this thought. I’m struggling to walk down comfortably. Having to put massive force into my upper legs to stop the momentum from dragging me down the path in an anarchic flail. My feet slip on the loose gravel constantly and it feels like its going on for eternity, I’m sweating from the effort whilst pondering “what sort of madman would bring a Fiat Panda or a Piaggio up here?” I’m ready for a rest as I reach a more relaxed incline and the welcome shade of some trees. From here the descent becomes easier for a while as I skirt through shepherds’ pastures and the undulating lower plains of Capo Pecora. I meet a fence constructed across the path which sends me on a fruitless 10-minute excursion into a prickly dry river creek trying to find away through before deciding that the fence is worthy of a climb and in all probability is there for containing animals. The fence hop brings me out onto some open pasture and through some mature woodland littered with the remnants of old farm settlements, complete with tumble down walls and cascades of granite rocks. The route isn’t so clear now that I’m amongst the trees and zig zagging the dips, grooves and gullies. I’m on a smaller trail now as the larger one disappeared at the start of the dry meadow. Heading in roughly the right direction I second guess myself a couple of times whilst glancing up the slope half convinced that I’ve descended to far and missed the Camino. This thought bothers me a few more times until I suddenly stumble upon it, winding its way back from Scivu.
On reaching the van, the mirror informs me that I’ve taken a fair whack of sun. My 2 months in the UK has taken its tole and I have turned into a Northern European sun magnet complete with red face and high sock and boot tidemarks that will make wearing flip flops look ridiculous. Driving down the curves on my towards the main road I feel happily expended and content that I’ve finally been and had a look at Su Gaurdianu after all these years of seeing it perched there at the end of the bay. Its always nice to complete something that you’ve wanted to do, to attain that goal that you’ve had in mind, but it also leaves a little gap, a little space for something else, a thought or idea ……..as the peaks of Perda de sa Mesa and Monte Lisone find their own little gap to peep over the hills of the Fluminese valley from its base over in Gonnosfanadiga. It seems like they’re giving me a little wink to let me know that there are some 1000 meter peaks to look towards…….
Sounds like you need some walking tights 🙂